
Website: https://www.yenny-elateneo.com/local/grand-splendid/
Physical address: Avenida Santa Fe 1860, C1123 CABA, Argentina
Phone number: +54 11 4813 6052
Business hours: Monday to Thursday 9am-10pm; Friday & Saturday 9am-12am; Sunday 12pm-10pm
Opened in 1919 as the Teatro Grand Splendid, the El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookshop in Buenos Aires has maintained more than its original name. With publications like The Guardian and National Geographic naming it among the world’s most beautiful book shops, the Grand Splendid is a particularly fitting title for a store that still contains frescoed ceilings, plush red curtains, a stage and theatre boxes, and more than 100,000 books.
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When it first opened, the Grand Splendid quickly became a hot spot for cultural life, hosting performances of plays, ballet, opera and, of course, tango. In 1924, it was the home of a local radio station, and later in the 1920s was converted into a cinema, from which the first film with sound was shown in 1929. Prior to that, live musical performances accompanied the silent films. Financial difficulties almost forced the theatre to close in the late 1990s, but a lease by Grupo Ilhsa saved the building, and saw it converted to a bookshop in 2000.
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Although the 1,050 seats were removed to make way for shelves, many of the theatre’s original features remain. A café has been installed at the back of the stage, so patrons can enjoy a beverage while they peruse the store’s offerings, and comfortable chairs throughout the building provide ideal nooks for making the most of one’s newest purchases. More than one million people a year visit El Ateneo Grand Splendid, so there may be a wait for the more popular spots, including the theatre boxes, which provide both privacy and a view of the stage.
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Most of the books are, of course, in Spanish, but some English titles – mainly crime and romance – are available. Children’s titles can be found in the basement, and the upper floors house exhibitions and beautiful views out over the rest of the store.